Wine Diary: WSET Level 3 – Day 2

I’m writing this the morning after class. We’ve hit that time in Chicago where it’s cold enough to need a jacket if you’re outside and standing still, like if you’re waiting for a bus or a train, but warm enough that you start sweating if you’re walking to or from the bus or the train while wearing a jacket. I began to feel a bit motion sick on the way home from class, even in just tasting wine you’re still consuming a small amount of alcohol. Add that to the warm train, with it’s lurching, jerky, movements, with the heat running, and the afternoon sun pouring through the window. By the time I got to my stop I was absolutely nauseous. I walked in the door, ate a sandwich and went to sleep.

Day 2 was a lot better. The focus was on the wines of France, which is never going to make for a bad day. We began with white wines from Alsace, moving into Burgundy, the Loire, Bordeaux, and the finally into the Rhone.

To know wine is to know France, you can’t escape it. There are places in the world that have been producing wine longer, but few countries could make any credible argument for doing it as well. They are the prototype against which all other wines are compared.

At times I can be quite hard on France. They are such a force in the wine world that they overshadow many of the smaller wine producing countries. Sometimes it’s overwhelming and you just think enough is enough. It’s like watching a Hollywood movie set in LA, you just want to grab the producer and scream, “There are other places in the world, get over yourself!”

At the end of the day, they’re still consistently producing a better product than anywhere else in the world and everyone else is trying to emulate their success.

This was much easier to wrap my mind around than the content of Day 1, sure there’s a still a lot to process. I can speak somewhat knowledgeably about French wine, but there are over 300 French AOC designations. I’ll be expected to know 1/4 to 1/3 of that for the final test in this class. Not simple by name, but where it is in terms of geography, what grapes are dominant there, and what styles of wine they produce. That’s heavy stuff and it’s not limited to France, we’ll be covering Italy, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Australia, New Zealand, the United States, etc. While those other countries many not be quite as complex, there’s a still a lot to know and memorize.

To try to become more familiar with French wine and the noble grape varieties, I picked up this Vin de Pays from Binny’s on Saturday when I bought the Cabernet Sauvignon. I wanted to do a comparative tasting between the noble red grapes, of course as I learned yesterday, my cab was a blend, so I’m not sure I’ll get what I want out of this particular exercise.

This Syrah comes from Domaine Yves Cuiilleron in the Northern Rhone, and, as I mentioned before, is a Vin de Pays, or “country wine.” The grapes utilized here are not the best of the harvest and the standards of production are not as rigorous as they would be in an AOC wine. However, it’s still a class above Vin de Table, or table wine.

Despite the lesser designation, I was quite happy with this wine:

Color: Clear, deep purple.

Aroma: Medium (-) intensity, blackberry, blueberry, forest floor, earth, barnyard, leather.

Palate: Dry, medium acidity, fine medium (+) tannin, medium alcohol, medium body, and medium intensity. Jammy, blackberry, black currant, black plum, “Boo Berry,” leather, and wet leaves. Medium (+) finish.

Quality: Very good, the tertiary flavors were not dominant, but still present. I think it could benefit from a short amount of ageing, but the low acidity makes me cautious about letting it sit for more than a couple of years.

Winemaking process: I didn’t pick up on any flavors or aromoas that would signal oak. Also, the color still is quite purple, which leads me to think it has seen limited oxygen contact, so I believe this would have only sat in inert vessels, probably stainless steel. Any speculation beyond that will require further study on my part, but I’ll take a stab at it.

The alcohol on this was comes in at 12.5% abv, which, while still classified as medium, is quite low. This suggests a cooler climate, which is consistent with the Northern Rhone. The best sites here would be on Southern facing hills, as a Vin de Pays, these grapes probably would have been from the base of the hills, or land between them, and more likely machine harvested than pulled by hand… oh my god, I need to read a lot more.

Day 3 is coming up this Saturday, I will probably make one or two updates between now and then, as I’m studying and comparing wines. If my nose isn’t in a glass, it needs to be in a book.

I wonder if the instructor would accept “Boo Berry” as a tasting note on the exam…

Wine Diary: WSET Level 3 – Day 1

I’m home from the first day of class for my next level of WSET certification. The course is 6 classes, running on Saturday and Sunday, 8 hours a day, for 3 weeks. The test, scheduled at the end of the final Sunday, comes in 2 parts 1) blind tasting and 2) theory, in the form of multiple choice and short answer. I’ve met more than one person who passed the tasting and failed the theory portions of the test. I’m honestly nervous about both parts.

From what everyone tells me, the tasting portion isn’t so bad, but when I’m comparing my notes to the rest of the class I always feel like I’m off the mark. The way it works is you first check the wine’s color, looking for age or defect. Next you smell the wine, noting intensity and characteristics of the aroma to determine wine’s stage of development. From there you taste, looking for sweetness, acidity, body, tannin, alcohol, flavor intensity and characteristics, noting primary, secondary, and tertiary flavors, and measure how long the finish is. From all of that you determine the quality of the wine and if it’s better to drink it now or let it age.

All of that is pretty similar to the WSET 2, but now there’s another layer of complexity where I’m supposed to determine winemaking processes, like whether oak or inert vessels were used, which doesn’t seem so hard, or whether the grapes were hand or machine harvested, which feels like I might as well be consulting the bones or movement of stars across the night sky; I can’t help but feel that part of this is just speculation and I’ve having a hell of a time wrapping my mind around it.

I’m not handling it well. Even when my tasting notes are somewhat accurate (compared to the instructor), I know I’m stabbing in the dark with some of my descriptions, so it’s a hollow win. By mid-afternoon I was going through some pretty serious palate fatigue, and started getting really frustrated, angry even. At one point they set two tastings in front of us and asked for notes, I had barely started on the second glass when they called time. Even when I am getting somewhat complete notes, I’m struggling to connect the processes.

Maybe things will be better tomorrow, but I left feeling pretty defeated today and I’m already wondering how much it will cost to reseat the test later.

I stopped off for a bottle of wine on the way home, to get some practice making notes and, honestly, because I felt like I wanted a drink. It was easier to go through the tasting guide here in apartment, so I know part of the issue I’m having is anxiety.

Usually I go into a wine shop looking for something I’ve never tried, but today I wanted to get something familiar. For the next three weeks I really need to be focusing on dominant grapes from well-known regions. It’s unlikely I’ll going to be tested on Fetească Neagră or wines from the He Lan Mountain region of China, so for tonight I went with a classic, California Cabernet Sauvignon. This particular wine comes from Francicsan and was suggested by the friendly staff at Binny’s.

This comes to us from Napa County, not to be mistaken for Napa Valley, and is actually a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Not quite what I was looking for, but a nice wine nonetheless. So, since I’ve been sitting in a classroom all day, I’ll try to write this as a WSET 3 tasting note for the sake of practice and to try to give a frame of reference.

Color: Clear, deep ruby.

Aroma: Clean, medium (-) intensity, black currant, black cherry, and clove. Still developing character.

Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, high alcohol, full-bodied, medium(+) intensity, black cherry, black currant, toast, clove, oak, vegetal, ginger. Long finish. Very good quality. Can enjoy now, but has aging potential.

Winemaking notes: oak vessel, machine harvest, warm region, I also speculated that there may be some whole clusters used in the fermentation process based on how fruit forward the wine is. This is a section I definitely need to improve on. As the class continues I will probably be making more frequent updates in order to practice this new method for tasting notes, and to document my thoughts as I go.

I’ll try to write another update tomorrow after class. By Monday I’m going to be ready to go back to work, just to get away from all this test anxiety and stress. Who knew drinking wine could be this hard?

Wine Diary: Chasing Harvest Douro DOC 2013


My goal for this early stage of the website’s development has been to generate content. With each new post I want to add, not just another blog, but additional information in both my Wine Guide and World Map. Further down the road I hope to expand the guide to include more information on regions, and maybe even things like winemaking, cooperage, trellising, etc.

At the moment there are a couple of significant omissions on my World Map, specifically I need to review wines from California, Chile, New Zealand, and Portugal. I hope to have all of these, as well as more neglected winemaking countries like Montenegro, Israel, Hungary, Moldova covered within my first fifty Wine Diary posts. As I shop for wines to review I keep an eye out for bottles from these areas, as well as unfamiliar grapes, or just wines that seem out of the ordinary.

This week I get to scratch Portugal off that list. Although their wine is amazing, it’s often overshadowed by wines from neighboring countries on store shelves. In fact, for being a well-established Old World wine country, it’s surprising how little I find from Portugal. The majority of what I see are fortified wines, both Port and Madeira come from Portugal and are staples in any well-stocked wine store, but the country’s dry red and white wines are often overlooked. I found this bottle at Gene’s Sausage Shop in Lincoln Square and decided to pick it up.

Chasing Harvest is produced by traveling winemakers Michael and Jennifer Kush from Chicago. In cooperation with Quinta da Costa vineyard in the Douro region of Portugal, they have put together this blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and Touriga Franca for thirsty consumers like you and me.

I feel like I spend a lot of time attacking vineyard and winemaker websites for frustrating design and a general lack of information. I’d be remiss if I didn’t take a moment to mention that the Chasing Harvest site is refreshingly simple and straight forward, it provided all of the information I was looking for in a short, concise, and user-friendly way.

Speaking of refreshing, they also make a damn good wine. Chasing Harvest Douro DOC 2013 had a nice blackberry/ black cherry flavor, well-balanced acid and tannin, with notes of fig and dried fruit that brought complexity to the blend. This was a wine that seemed to evolve as I drank it, a bottle to sit and explore, perfect for conversation with friends, or to have with a hearty stew or Sunday roast. If you find a bottle consider yourself fortunate (or you go to one of these stores on the list Chasing Harvest provides).

Wine Diary: Friends’ Wine Saperavi 2016

The first time I tried Saperavi it was in a bottle shaped like a bear hugging a tree trunk. I knew I was rolling the dice when I bought it; there were wine stains on the outside that looked like they leaked from inside, and if wine can get out air can get in, but when was I going to have another chance to drink wine from a tree trunk that a bear was hugging?

As I suspected, it was oxidized, which was disappointing, because after reading up on the history of Saperavi and winemaking in Georgia, I really wanted to try it. This marked the beginning of my journey to find a good bottle of Saperavi wine. It’s been a long road and I’ve had a lot of bad luck with this grape, but here we are, I finally found a bottle worth talking about.

Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of information out there about this wine. According to the bottle, “Friends’ Wine is hand made by three friends at Gio’s Marani, a small winery in the Kakheti region of Georgia.” However, the website for Gio’s Marani has no information about it and it isn’t listed among their wines. I suspect it’s made at the winery, but not by the winery. Curiously, the importer’s website also has no information and doesn’t include this label on the list of wines they carry. I was able to find a Facebook business page for the wine, but even that contains sparse information.

So, I don’t have a lot to work with for this blog. I don’t if the wine was made in Qvevri, steel tanks, or oak barrels, what kind of yeast they used, what kind of fining or filtering process they chose, or if the wine is biodynamic, natural, organic, or whatever. For all I know, holy virgins massaged the grapes as they were plucked from the vines, or maybe underpaid cyborg laborers on, the verge of revolution, were forced to work harvest under threat of violence toward their families. Beyond that it’s a Saperavi wine from the Kakheti region of the Republic of Georgia, I got nothing.

What I do know is how I felt about the wine. Like I said in the beginning, I’ve had a lot of bad luck with Saperavi. This grape has a funky, earthy, barnyard character that I didn’t fully appreciate when I first got into wine. I don’t think this is for everyone, in the same way that funky cheese isn’t for everyone, but for those who appreciate complexity and range of flavor, it can be divine. On the nose, I picked up a raspberry aroma intermingled with that previously mentioned funk, but the flavor fell more in the range of blackberry with an earthy, herbaceous, livestock on a warm summer day, quality that might sound unpleasant, but I genuinely enjoyed.

This isn’t a wine I would recommend for everyone, but for those who like earthy wines or just want to learn more about wine, this is a great bottle. I would be reluctant to bring this to most social situations with mixed company, but I think this would be the perfect wine to have with venison sausage, game meat, and cheese at a deer camp or a hunting lodge. It would make a nice alternative to the Ding Dongs, trail mix, and Michelob Ultra I had last time I was at the family hunting cabin.

Wine Diary: Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau 2018


My first exposure to Beaujolais Nouveau was a couple of years ago, listening to a customer complain to me about how popular it had become, which is ironic considering I had never heard of it. People always assume you know more than them when you’re the one pouring the wine. This particular customer was upset that her secret wine, the one that gave her hipster cred, was now so widely recognized and sought after. So, in the same way Groucho Marx refused to be a part of any organization that would have someone like him as a member, it seemed as though this woman was declaring Beaujolais Nouveau had peaked because now even louts like me were engaged in conversations about it. God forbid if the unwashed masses want to enjoy a nice glass of wine.

For me, Beaujolais Nouveau is just another of those wines I always enjoy figuratively, but rarely make the time to enjoy literally. I’ve never had a bad experience with it, but there always seems to be another wine demanding my attention. When I saw this bottle sitting on the shelf at Gene’s Sausage Shop, I decided it was time treat myself, and write a review about one of those tragically fashionable Beaujolais wines.

Founded in 1865, Mommessin is a négociant winery that produces a variety of Beaujolais wines. Their website doesn’t have a lot of information in general, I could find almost nothing about this particular Beaujolais Nouveau, outside of a press release crediting the artist behind the label, Jeanne Saint-Clair, an illustrator from Lyon. I was unable to find more work from the artist online, not even an Instagram page. If anyone finds anything, let me know, I thought the label was very fun and would love to see more of their work.

This was pretty much everything you would expect from a Beaujolais Nouveau, it was light, fruity, had a refreshing acidity, and was easy to drink. Made from 100% Gamay, it possessed a nice assortment of raspberry and cranberry flavors, but was uncomplicated. So, it’s not the kind of wine to sit and ponder over, but rather the glass of wine that makes the troubles of the day seem like a distant memory. It is the personification of carefree youth. It was the perfect wine to sip on while taking photos on an free afternoon.

Despite what my customer thought, I have yet to find a flood of Beaujolais on the market, nouveau or otherwise. To be honest I would welcome it. While this wine was certainly uncomplicated, it possessed more character than the domestically produced, light-bodied wines it would be competing with, and I’m always one to welcome greater variety. Wines like this should be shared and enjoyed, not horded and used as some artifact to demonstrate how cultured of a wine drinker you are. Besides, Beaujolais is hardly obscure.

Wine Diary: Château la Grolet Côtes de Bourg 2016

Most of my reviews have been pretty generous, even when I don’t like a wine I try to be fair about it. Sometimes the wine might not meet my expectations, but in those moments I have to consider that my expectations may have been unreasonable. At the end of the day, I’m not an expert, I just have a thirst for wine and knowledge. All that being said, I was disappointed with this wine.

A little background, I learned pretty early that red wines from France’s Bordeaux region are the prototype for red blends across the world. As a person wanting to learn more about wine, that seemed a good place to start. So, for several months I sought out small corner shops that sell wine, to dig through their shelves for a bottle of basic Bordeaux AOC wine. In Chicago you can find these practically everywhere, for $10-15. By exploring wine this way, I was able to create a base line to compare other red blends, whether they be Italian, American, Australian, or whatever. At the same time, I developed an opinion of what I felt a Bordeaux should be.

Chateau le Grolet didn’t meet my expectation. Instead of being well-structured and harmonious, I found it to be have an aggressive fruit profile and lighter body than I was used to. Normally, when confronted with a wine like this I would write it off, but there’s just one problem, it isn’t simply a Bordeaux, it’s a Côtes de Bourg.

You see, Bordeaux isn’t just a single region, there are about 50 smaller wine districts within the Bordeaux AOC and each of those have different rules. So, what’s the difference between a basic Bordeaux and a Côtes de Bourg? I have no idea, and that’s the problem. This is the first time I’ve encountered a Côtes de Bourg, it’s not really fair for me to try to hold it to a standard I developed while drinking a completely different wine.

Here’s what I do know, most of the Bordeaux wines I’ve had were from the left bank, which generally uses Cabernet Sauvignon as a base for their wine. Chateau la Grolet is on the right bank, which typically use Merlot as a base. In fact, this wine is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. While I’ve had other right bank wines, they were more full-bodied and complex than this, but even that isn’t really a fair comparison since they were from different districts.

Chateau la Grolet is named for a 17th century manor that lies north of the confluence of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. In 1997 it was acquired by the current owners who converted it to biodynamics. The wine is fermented with ambient yeast, it is organic, biodynamic, vegan, and Demeter certified. My impression was that it was a light to medium wine, with aggressive fruit flavors, and simple character.

At this point, I’m really trying to reserve judgment until I’ve had the opportunity to try another Côtes de Bourg. While I wasn’t pleased with how this wine performed, I wonder if I would have felt differently if I wasn’t expecting it to be something else. It seems clear the producers have made this wine with great care and I don’t want to casually dismiss their efforts due to my own ignorance.

If you’re looking for a basic Bordeaux, this is not a wine I would recommend. I think it would be a nice pairing for some fish, poultry, and pork dishes, but I would avoid pairing it with red meat. However, it is smooth enough that you don’t have to drink it with a meal. This also could be a good bottle to share with someone who tends to favor lighter reds or finds tannin disagreeable.

At least, that’s what I think. If you have the chance to try it, leave me a comment and let me know what you think.

Wine Diary: Painted Wolf the Den Pinotage 2017


If you look at my life, it’s only natural that I would develop an affinity for Pinotage. Just tell me something is popular and I’ll give you a list of reasons why it sucks. A musician clawed their way to the top and got a Pepsi endorsement deal? They’re a sellout. The #1 movie in the country right now? It’s full of plot holes and soundtrack is bullshit. Of course, the opposite is also true. You found an indie comic book by a barely competent writer/ artist duo? It’s a masterpiece. There’s a grape so reviled that you can’t even discuss it’s wine without saying something unflattering? I must try it. I am, if nothing else, counterculture to a flaw.

There’s a piece of conventional wisdom around wine labeling that says, “if you put an animal on the label, people will buy it.” I’ve heard this trend bemoaned by wine enthusiasts, but I’ve also watched it in action. Working for a wine retailer, I really can’t complain. Most of this is just an attempt to create a recognizable brand to promote sales of a product. Maybe the owner really does love their dog a lot, but that’s not why they’re putting Fido on the label. With Painted Wolf it seems different, it’s not just a dog on the label, it’s an endangered species.

It’s fashionable for every organization to have a pet charity, something they can point at to show the world they’re not complete scumbags, but rarely have I seen that charity be the central focus of a brand. In the case of Painted Wolf, part of the proceeds from each bottle of wine sold are donated to conservation groups like Tusk and the Endangered Wildlife Trust, but beyond that the entire brand is created with the intention of raising awareness for the endangered African wild dog.

So, yeah, they put a dog on the label to get your attention, because if something isn’t done, it won’t exist in the future. Even if you hate the idea of animals on labels, this seems pretty justifiable. I mean, it’s not like Querceto was trying to save the unicorns.

As for the wine itself, the grapes are harvested from Swartland and Paarl, NE of Cape Town, South Africa. French and American oak staves were used during fermentation, and the wine was pressed off into old French and American oak barrels. 15% of the 2018 vintage was blended into the 2017 before the wine was bottled, a process I am completely unfamiliar with. It has nice cherry and allspice aromas, with flavors of blackberry, raspberry, smoke, and wet leaves. Really nice complexity, but still easy to drink.

I’ve always felt Pinotage was the underdog of the wine world, it’s probably one of the things that has drawn me to it. So, maybe it’s appropriate for them to have dogs on the label, whatever the reason.

Wine Diary: Reunión Malbec 2017

It’s not a good idea to form sentimental attachments to the things you sell, but this wine has always been kind of special to me. To start with, I was in the meeting when we decided to start carrying it. The long table on label looks similar to the table in our center kitchen, and serves as a kind of metaphor for me, about how food and wine bring people together. That was the deciding factor for me, the reason I wanted this bottle out of a short list of other Malbec wines we were looking at; whether our values aligned with the producer or I was just imposing them on a drawing of a table they put on the front of their bottle, I felt like this was more than just a wine to sell, but a representation of who we were.

The grapes come from the Valle de Uco in Mendoza, Argentina, grown by a family-run winery called R.J. Viñedos. According to what little information I can find, the grapes are sustainably raised and the wine is bottled by the producer. Soil in that region is classified as alluvial, and the average annual temperature is 14ºC (57ºF). The tech sheet provided by the importer says the wine spends five months in a combination of French and American oak. I was also able to verify this wine is produced vegan through e-mail correspondence with the importer.

With Reunión I feel R.J. Viñedos has struck a nice balance with a wine that is both easy drinking and complex. The black fruit flavors give way to earthy highlights with a mellow tannic finish. The final product is a wine that is bold enough to pair with red meat, but light enough work with fish or poultry. It’s rare for a wine to have both character and versatility, but this is why it has become such a successful addition to our list.

Over the holidays we hosted a lot of company parties and poured a lot of wine. During one particular party I was confronted by the thing I hate dealing with the most, a wine snob. There’s an old adage that says, “The customer is always right,” though it would be more accurate to say, “A good employee should always pretend the customer is right, even if he’s being a jackass.”

As with all of our private events, the wines were selected in advance and specified in contract. When one of the company bigwigs showed up, none of the wines they selected were refined enough for his delicate palate, Reunión included. I was tasked with finding a suitable replacement, which usually means opening up bottles with higher price tags. At one point during this process the guy even pulled me aside to tell me how bad he thought Reunión was, looking for me to validate his expensive taste. I smiled and nodded, because that’s the job and, at the end of the day they were spending more money for me to play along.

Why should I care if he doesn’t like the wine I sell? It was like he had called one of my kids ugly.

Like I said, it’s probably better that I don’t form some kind of sentimental attachment to a wine that I’m selling, but in this case I just can’t seem to help it. Over the past two years I’ve accumulated a lot of fond memories around Reunión, whether it’s chatting with guests as I taste this wine out during happy hour or chef Guillermo mocking my terrible Spanish pronunciation every time I fail to trill an “r,” whenever I see the label I’m overcome with nauseatingly sappy emotions.

On the other hand, maybe having a bias is good sometimes, because when I recommend this wine to guests, I’m doing it honestly.

Wine Diary: Aurelia Visinescu Nomad Fetească Neagră 2014

In December of 2017 I fell in love with Romanian wine. I was on a budget and looking for something a decent, but not mass produced; Champagne taste on a beer budget, as they say. In a small store just North of where I work in Lincoln Square, I found a corner store that has a large specialty selection of Eastern European wines at prices comparable to anything on the bottom shelf of the grocery store. It seemed too good to be true, but I bought a bottle, because the worst thing that could happen was that it would be a learning experience. As it turns out, I had just stumbled down a rabbit hole that would led me into a series of incredible wine experiences over the next year.

Aurelia Visinescu Nomad Fetească Neagră red wine

Up until this time I bought my wines based on either 1) a region I was vaguely familiar with, but wanted to learn more about or 2) Bordeaux. Trying my first Romanian wine wasn’t necessarily an epiphany, but it was a positive experience. It showed me that good wine could come from places outside of France, Italy, California, Spain, and sometimes Germany, despite conventional wisdom. So, I went back and bought another, and then another. I started reading up on the regions and regional grapes and then I did have an epiphany, a wine so mindblowingly good I would have put it up against anything I had tried before. It changed how I looked at wine, how I shopped for wine, and has rewarded me over and over during the course of the last year. This wine, Nomad Fetească Neagră, was one of those experiences.

Produced in the region of Dealu Mare, Southeast of the Carpatian Mountains, specifically near the village of Săhăteni, this is Nomad Fetească Neagră. According to Aurelia Visinescu’s website, the Nomad line is intended to represent a modern style of wine. My previous experiences with Fetească Neagră have been fairly lackluster. I’ve often told people, if you plan to try Romanian wine, buy white not red, because that is where I found my superior experiences, until I bought this bottle. This is, hands down, the best Fetească Neagră wine I have ever had. It’s also the only one I’ve had that has seen oak aging, which it responded to very well. Flavors of plum and cranberry mingled with clove for a complex wine, with solid tannin, and a long finish.

My introduction to Romanian wines has emboldened me to explore several new areas and to never be dissuaded by regional criticisms. While that attitude has led me to discover great wines from many places, I keep coming back to Romania. There’s something about their wines that just excites me and no matter how many times I tell people, they still seem surprised that I’m endorsing wine from that region.

Let’s be perfectly frank, I’ve had more bad wine from California than anywhere else in the world, where’s the risk in trying something new?

Czar Lazar Serbian Red Wine

Wine Diary: Czar Lazar Semi-Dry Non-Vintage

When I started this website, one of the first wines I wrote about was Czar Lazar Semi-Dry. When I decided to re-brand, putting more emphasis on my own photography instead of relying on stock photos, I took down everything and started all over.The thing is, I really liked some of the old posts, I just didn’t have good images to pair with the blog, so I went back to Cardinal Wine and Spirits to buy another bottle of this, making sure I shot better photos this time around.

I’m not going to lie, Czar Lazar sounds like some forgotten Captain America villain that would only find screen time long after the franchise jumped the shark. I wanted to understand his significance, so I looked him up, here’s a brief note for my historically minded readers: Lazar Hrebeljanović was a 14thcentury Serbian ruler who maintained a strong and prosperous state,he died in the battle of Kosovo on June 15th1389 while fighting the invading Ottoman army. He is an important cultural figure to Serbia and a saint in the Orthodox Christian Church, and he also has a wine named after him.

This was my second Serbian wine I’ve tried, the other was from the same producer and they were both off dry. A lot of the Eastern European wines I’ve encountered are a little sweet, which I think one of the reasons so many people disregard them. I’m guilty of it too, I caught myself hesitating to buy this because I didn’t want something that was too sweet. Look, the only reason an off dry or semi-dry wine would ever be “too sweet” was if it was unbalanced, and there’s a risk of that with every wine you buy. When I realized what I was doing, I made myself buy a bottle to take home, I’m glad I did.

The wine had a gorgeous deep garnet color. There was a lot of black fruit in the nose, with some earthy, vegetal, aromas hiding underneath. The body was just a touch heavier than medium, subtle tannin, off dry with a well balanced acidity, dominating black cherry flavors, and a touch of wet leaves. It was everything I ever want out of California Pinot Noir, but can never find.

Don’t let my last statement mislead you, this isn’t Pinot Noir. According to producer’s website, Czar Lazar is made from a blend of Prokupac, Vranac, Merlot, and Games. The first two are pretty common Eastern European varietals, and Merlot is a rock star grape everyone should be familiar with, but what is Games? My first thought was that it was a regional spelling of Gamay, but Jancis Robinson’s book on wine grapes leads me to believe it’s Blaufränkisch.

The other interesting thing about this wine is that it appears to be non-vintage. There’s no harvest year listed anywhere on the label. So, beyond being a blend of grapes, it could also be a blend of vintages. There’s not a lot of information on the website, if anyone knows the details, fill me in.

Lastly, and one of my favorite things about wines from Eastern Europe, this cost only me $5.99. The website lists this as a table wine, something for a weeknight meal, not a special occasion and that’s exactly how I’d look at it. If you need a weeknight red, this is great choice,because it has more complexity than the average bottle or box in the same price range.

But that’s my opinion, if you’ve had the chance to try it, let me know what you think.