Wine Diary: Mawby Vineyards Sex Sparkling Rosé NV

Okay, how could you not pick this wine for Valentine’s Day? The name has all the subtlety of a sledgehammer, but there should be no miscommunication between you and your date. I’ve wanted to carry this wine at work for a long time, just to hear my co-workers say things like, “The chef recommends Sex tonight,” or, “Have you tried Sex? It’s really good.” It’s the joke that never ends.

Beyond the silly immaturity of it all, I’ve wanted to carry a Michigan wine for a while now. It’s easy to look past wines produced in a majority of the United States, most wine press give their attention to what’s produced on the West Coast. As a consequence, people tend to think the local soil and climate are incapable or producing quality wine. It’s a misconception that benefits the established regions and makes it that much harder for the pioneering local winemaker.

Despite all that, Michigan has a growing reputation for producing quality wine, particularly Riesling. I haven’t had a lot of wine from from the state, but nothing so far has disappointed me. Before the site overhaul last summer, I previously had a review of a Riesling from Left Foot Charley that I enjoyed, but of all the Michigan producers, I’ve dealt with Mawby the most.

For about a year we were selling a sparkling wine from this same line, M. Lawrence Green, at the Chopping Block. I even wrote a blog about it on the company site, encouraging people to try local wines. When I heard they had a sparkling rosé called Sex, I knew I wanted to try it… after all, I’ve heard really good things about it.

Mawby vineyards founder, Larry Mawby, planted his first grapes in the mid-seventies. Growing up on a farm, he always knew he would be working in agriculture to some degree. While traveling through Europe, he was inspired by the vineyards and wine of Burgundy in France. Upon returning home, he set his mind to producing wine in his home state of Michigan. Today Mawby is a small vineyard that produces Pinot Noir, Vignoles, Pinot Gris, Regent, Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. They also supplement their harvest by acquiring additional grapes from other vineyards in Michigan, Washington, and California, which is a pretty common practice, though Mawby seems more transparent about it than most vineyards.

According to their website, the M.Lawrence line of wines is an artistic endeavor to express music through wine. Sex is described as a “Fleshy Top-40 Rosé.” It seems pretty obvious to me that if sex was music it would sound like Bill Withers, but I guess everyone has their own opinion.

The wine is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Muscat. There’s some great red fruit flavors and enough playful effervescence to make the wine fun, but where it really stood out was in the range of textures I experienced while drinking it, in the beginning it seemed fibrous and juicy like biting into an apple, by the finish it was more dry and mineral. The best word I can use to describe this wine is “Sensual,” literally gratifying to all my senses, which may be the brilliance of naming it Sex.

If you keep track of my blogging, you may recall that I also recommended a sparkling rosé for Thanksgiving. What can I say? It’s a fun style of wine, that’s inoffensive, and food friendly. Plus, how can you pass up on recommending people have Sex for Valentine’s Day. Just call me Cupid… or maybe Dionysus.

Chinese coin wine bottle

Wine Diary: Dragon’s Hollow Unoaked Chardonnay 2005

I was browsing through the Artisan Cellar one day when I discovered a glitch in the matrix in the form of a 13 year old bottle of unoaked Chinese Chardonnay. It was just sitting there in the discount bin, the same bin I had combed over countless times before. How had I missed this?

I’ve been on the hunt for good Chinese wine ever since I read Thirsty Dragon, but it seems most wine shops won’t touch it. The few people I know who have encountered it tell me the quality isn’t there. Of course, they say the same thing about those Eastern European wines I’ve come to love so much, so I figured it’s worth checking out. Unfortunately, Chinese grape wine is nearly impossible to find.

I had some minor success in Chicago’s Chinatown Square, where I was able to find Chinese wine for sale, but both bottles I purchased were oxidized. It was a dire omen for my hopes of finding a good Chinese wine. Then this happened.

Dragon's Hollow Chinese unoaked Chardonnay label wine bottle

The bottle was one big red flag. Chardonnay is capable of aging, but my limited knowledge on the subject told me it needed oak. As I understood it, this wine would have been best within 1-2 years, maybe up 5. Some of the best Chardonnay in the world can age a decade or more, but that’s something we associate with high dollar Burgundy, not bargain bin Chinese wine. Bottom line, it was a risky bottle. So what do you do? On one hand this may be that good Chinese wine I’ve been searching for, but on the other everything about the situation screamed, “Walk away!”

It was a difficult decision, so I reached into the furthest depths of my arcane wine knowledge and asked the clerk what he thought. “Do you stand by this wine?” Was my question.

“Would you?” He asked. “Look, that bottle has been knocking around the shelves for years. If you want it, I’ll sell it to you for half price just to get rid of it. It’s something my predecessor bought. If it’s no good, let me know and I’ll make it up to you.”

At this point, the bottle was now essentially risk free. Obviously, I bought it.

Chinese wine Dragon's Hollow unoaked Chardonnay label glass

I strongly suspect the wine was past its prime, but not unpleasantly so. It had great complexity, flavors of cantaloupe and pear with herbal notes, the acidity was well balanced, and overall I found it to be a smooth and pleasant experience. I would absolutely buy another bottle from this producer.

I don’t have much knowledge of Chinese wine. In my two WSET certifications, it wasn’t even mentioned. The instructor went out of his way to ridicule South African Pinotage, he didn’t seem like the kind of guy to ask about wine off the beaten path.

According to the bottle, Dragon’s Hollow is produced in the Helan Mountain Appellation. This mountain range is in northwest China, right against a desert region that separates China from Mongolia. It’s part of the Ningxia region, which has developed a some positive attention for their wines.

I was able to find the producer’s website, though it appears they haven’t updated their site or social media accounts in about seven years, with the exception of posts on Twitter about the Voice and Friskies cat fishing scores. According to the bottle, the wine was imported by Broadbent Selections, but the label is not currently listed on their site. However, the Dragon’s Hollow website lists MHW as their importer, though they also do not appear to list the wine on their site.

To make a long story short (too late), I do not know if they are still producing wine. While it would be a shame to lose the only good wine producer I’ve found just as I discover them, the experience has encouraged me to continue looking for new wines and new wine regions.